The Finanziera is a dish of medieval origin that uses offal and scraps from the best cuts. It takes its name from the long garment worn by men of finance in the nineteenth century, who craved this.
Flavors from the past
The finanziera sauce is a traditional Piedmont recipe whose origins seem to date to the Middle Ages; the first known recipe is from 1450 by Martino de’ Rossi, known as “Maestro Martino”, a Lombard cook and gourmet born in 1430. Its origin is to be found in the Monferrato area, although over time the recipe underwent numerous alterations, but remained a “poor” dish. It was made from the parts discarded during the slaughter of cattle and the transformation of roosters into capons.
The etymology of the name seems, however, not to trace these humble origins, since the term “finanziera” indicates a ceremonial jacket worn in Turin in the nineteenth century by bankers and men of high finance in Piedmont, almost as if bearing witness to the passage of this recipe from the tables of the humble to those of the most affluent classes. It is no coincidence that a well-known recipe for “Salsa and ragout à la financière” was attributed to Giovanni Vialardi (1804-1872), a famous chef who until 1853 remained at the service of the Savoy house.
INGREDIENTS FOR 10
For the meat:
Rooster crests 300 g
Veal sweetbreads 300 g
Chicken livers 300 g
Veal rump 300 g
Veal back 300 g
Beef filet 200 g
Chicken wattles 100 g
For the preparation:
Fresh porcini mushrooms 800 g
Stock 300 g
Butter 150 g
Dry Marsala 80 g
White wine 20 g
00 Flour as needed
Bay leaves 1
Fine salt to taste
Black pepper to taste
WHAT YOU’LL NEED IN YOUR KITCKEN
Follow These 5 Steps to Start
1 0f 5
Boil rooster crests and chicken wattles starting in cold water for about 5 minutes from the beginning of the boiling. Drain and cool under running water rubbing with your hands to remove as much of the skin as possible.
Soak in cold water for about 3 hours changing water several times until the crests and wattles are white.
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3 of 5
Blanch the sweetbreads in water, drain and cool under running water. Remove the fine skin and cut into smaller pieces.
Cut the other meat and chicken livers into slices and irregular pieces. Lightly flour and brown in frying pan with foamy butter. Season with fine salt and black pepper, add the crests, wattles and sweetbreads and continue cooking for 2-3 minutes. Wet with white wine and Marsala, evaporate and add the stock.
4 of 5
5 of 5
Cook for another minute and serve on a plate with the porcini mushrooms previously sliced into cubes and sautéed with butter.
The cook’s secret
The original recipe calls for wine vinegar. If the offal is properly treated, it is not necessary to add the vinegar that would, on the contrary, give too much flavor to the preparation.
The meat stock
The stock is a preparation obtained by cooking meat and vegetables in water to extract their nutrients and aromas. These are used in soups or as a base to flavor other dishes. They are classified into white and brown, according to the ingredients used (in addition to gravies, scraps of meat, bones and vegetable, fats and oils, wine, sauce or tomato paste are also used) and the method of preparation: while in white stock, foods are immersed in water and brought to a boil, the brown stock is first browned in fats then deglazed with wine, flavored with sauce or tomato paste and boiled with water.
Bones, trimmings of veal (and/or pork and beef, carcasses, wings, legs, necks of poultry) 6 kg
Celery 600 g
Carrots 600 g
Onions 600 g
Tomatoes for sauce 800 g
Pork rinds 300 g
Olive oil 100 g
Red wine 50 cl
Garlic 5 cloves
Thyme 1 pinch
Bay laurel leaves 4-5
Parsley 1 small bunch
Cloves (optional) 3-4
Pepper grains 10
Water 12 l
WHAT YOU’LL NEED IN YOUR KITCKEN
- Chop the bones into small pieces and rinse them under running water to remove impurities; then drain them and place them in a baking dish.
- Bake the bones at 200 °C for a few minutes, to eliminate excess fat and surface fat.
- Wash, clean and chop carrot and onion into large pieces; peel the garlic; wash the parsley and bay leaf.
- In a high-sided roasting pan or saucepan, fry the defatted bones, scraps of meat and pork rinds in oil (A). The temperature should be constant and sustained, but not too high, until the ingredients turn a nice golden brown (B).
- Add the celery, carrots, onions and garlic and let them brown (C); meanwhile the other ingredients will become brownish (D). If there is a lot of fat at the bottom, remove the excess.
- Wet with wine and deglaze, scraping away, with a wooden spoon, the crust formed on the bottom of the pan.
- Add the tomatoes cut into pieces and stir, then cover with water (and), add the parsley, garlic, bay leaves and other herbs.
- Bring to a boil and every now and then skim off the substances that appear on the surface.
- Continue cooking on a medium heat for 4-5 hours (F).
- Let the stock stand for fifteen minutes and then strain it with the Chinese colander.
The cook’s secrets
Having the quantities indicated in the recipe as a reference, the common brown stock will have reached the right reduction point when, once the straining is completed, it does not exceed 6 liters. If not used immediately, it can be cooled in a cooler and stored in a refrigerator in glass or plastic containers. As a variation, instead of fresh tomatoes you can also use peeled tomatoes or 80 grams of tomato paste.
Parsley: preferably to be used raw in order to preserve all its properties (including a high level of vitamins and minerals) and the essential oils responsible for its aroma and flavor, which deteriorate easily with heat. We should always add parsley at the end of the cooking time. It goes well with many Mediterranean dishes, especially if used in sauces to season grilled meats and marinades. It is essential in all seafood and canned vegetables.
Cloves: these are used to give flavor to desserts, cooked fruit, candied fruit cakes, biscuits, puddings, liqueurs and flavored wines, but they also go well with meat, stews or soups with meat, with game or added to barbecue sauce. They also give flavor to cheeses, some sweet vegetables, such as onions and carrots and pickled vegetables. Finally, they are often used for flavored teas and infusions.
How Much Do You Know…?
The pétite marmite is:
The name “finanziera” may derive from the tribute in kind – primarily made up of chicken giblets, which are some of the sauce’s main ingredients – paid by peasants to the guards (finanzieri) to enter the city of Turin.